The route known as the W in the Torres Del Paine National Park has a reputation for being the best trekking in the world. I can’t say that I’ve tried them all, but it’s certainly not half bad!
It’s not a trail for those wanting to rough it or looking for a little solitude, but with four days of constantly changing landscape, good trails and the option of cooked meals and hot showers at the refugios it’s got a lot to offer. I was fortunate enough to meet some great people along the way: trekking the first two and a half days with a lass I’d bumped in Chaltern, then bumping into an Irish family that I’d played boules with below Fitz Roy, and getting to know (among others) a cracking English couple and their guide at the campsites every night. (If any of you ever need a guide in the Paine area, give Dave a shout: http://www.dittmaradventures.com/ )
From a trekking point of view, the weather was kind again. From a photographic point of view, it was exceptionally frustrating. Lots of “almost” great conditions, but that’s the nature of the game, and you’ve just got to make the most of what you get on the day. And I guess that the silver lining to the cloud is that on days when there’s lots of low cloud and it’s snowing at 4am you get to go back to bed rather than crawl out to try and take some photographs. And not every day was bad!
Spotlight on Torre Central
I tried not to worry about it too much. I am, after all, on holiday: not every day out has to produce perfect pictures. And to be honest, I still maintain that sometimes you get something more representative of the area, more real to most people, when the weather’s not quite perfect.
Coming down from the Torres and rounding the side of the mountains to a sudden view of Los Cuernos up close for the first time, or climbing up into the French Valley, watching the regular avalanches makes for constantly interesting walking. A suitably early start in the morning helps you to make the most of the trails before they get crowded. You still have the pleasure of some good company at the campsites every night, but avoid the crowds during the day – it’s the best of both worlds.
Paine Grande
I still can’t quite grasp just how much the landscape changes from day to day. Each section of the trail has it’s own very distinct geology and character. The imposing, ragged peaks and spires of Paine Grande could not be more different to the sculpted elegance of the Cuernos right next door. Equally, every valley or summit seems to have it’s own weather system. You can be standing in blazing sunshine by Lago Pehoe, watching the snow falling in Val Frances so hard that it completely obscures the mountains.
Paine Grande & Los Cuernos
I’m now back in Puerto Natales, taking a fews days rest to catch up on some processing, some sleep, and some washing. I’ll head back to Paine in a couple of days to try some alternative locations, and get the photos that I wanted from the W. Without feeling the need to complete a set trek, I’ll have more time to sit and wait for the light and the conditions that I’d like, and if I try not to leave my book on the bus this time, the waiting will be all the easier too….
I’ll let you know how I get on.
Puerto Natales
